Fact File : MHOW

Flag of Indian Army

Have you guys seen the Madhya Pradesh Tourism advertisement? ‘Hindustan ka dil dekha…’
Isn’t it awesome? I totally lov it! Not only is the jingle catchy, the concept was clutter breaking and most of all – enjoyable.

For me the thought of Madhya Pradesh takes me to the years I’ve spent in Mhow.


Haven’t heard of it, have you? Here is some info to get you started.


Must Know – Mhow is a acronym for Military Headquarters of War. It’s a cozy little town about 25 km from Indore and one of India’s most prestigious military training establishments. The military cantonment was founded in 1818 by Sir John Malcolm and is located in the Malwa Plateau. It was established as a result of the Treaty of Mandsour signed by the British Government and the erstwhile Holkar king.

College of Combat, Infantry School and MCTE are the three institutions situated within the cantonment. It has all things that are fauji – a golf cource, open air theater, swimming pool, Army School, Command Hospital and lots and lots of faujies.


Must See– Many of my memories of Mhow are of the picnics we had. Mhow is famous for its mild and pleasant weather, beautiful countryside and thus picnics were almost mandatory.

A few of the picnic spots near Mhow worth visiting are Patal Pani Waterfall (5 km), Berchha Lake (8 km), Mandleshwar (70 km), Nakheri Dam (8 km) and Choral Dam (12 km) . Chaaki wale Mahadev, Paatal Hanuman and Kaali Mata temple are the three significant temples in the town.

Must Do – If you are going to Mhow, I am assuming you know someone from the India Army and so something you must do is watch a movie in the open air theater at Infantry/ MCTE movie hall. The experience of watching a movie under the stars is very different for our normal run-off the-mill multiplexes. Another favorite activity for a lot of people in Mhow is fishing at Berchha Lake, although I have absolutely no patience for this.

Also, if you do get a chance to see the light & sound show put up by the Infantry college, you must. It is truly out of the world. The sounds of live fire and the fireworks display at the end. I was fortunate to see a couple of them & will cherish those fun times.


Must Buy – Mhow is famous for a special kind of embroidery called ‘smoking’. A


must buy are the night gowns and kiddy clothes. They are easily available and ask around in the market for shops that stock them. Leather is also famous – shoes, been bags and more.

About a decade or so back there was a weekly market by the nomads. (don’t know what the situation is now).This was an open air market where what you’ll find was like going on a little adventure. One could find anything from beautiful handmade jewelry or artifacts, clothes, vegetables, knives, gardening equipment, well anything!

Must Try – There is a strong Parsi legacy to this small town as well (the architecture will tell you that) and so the bakeries here are wonderful. Also, try the sabudana namkeen it is a sweet & salty snack with potato flitter, peanuts and sabudana.

The lyrics:

Hindustan Ka Dil Dekha
Bandar dekha, haathi dekha.
Barahsingha, aur cheetal dekha.
Mowgli ke jungleon mein,
Sher Khan ko dekha.
Pachmarhi Satpura ka ajooba,
Bhopal lake mein suraj dooba.
Mandu ka jahaz mahal,
Aur marble ka pahad dekha.
Mahakaal mandir mein pooja,
Photo khicha jaake Orcha.
Gwalior ke kile mein bhatka,
Khajuraho ne de diya jhatka.
Dhim tana dhi re na… nadir…
Purvajon ko milne jule,
Jaa bahita mein Bhimbhetka.
Train ki chik chuk sunte,
Aa pahucha mein Sanchi stupa.
Sanchi ki shanti mein,
Khudke aandar jhaak ke dekha.
Hindustan ka dil dekha.
Hindustan ka dil dekha.